Cumberland National Seashore; The Island of Car-neigh-gie

Among the Barrier Islands of Georgia, is an Island where horses roam free and turtles come to nest. This was the Island of Car-neigh-gie. Thomas Carnegie, of the Pittsburg steel industry bought a large percentage of Cumberland Island with his wife Lucy. While there is ownership by Coca Cola and Carnegie heirs and other people on the Island, much of Cumberland Island is owned by the National Park Service and is protected as Cumberland Island National Seashore.

How do you Pronounce Carnegie?

Where do you put the accent on Carnegie? For Scots, they put the accent everywhere but where the English do. For the accurate Scottish pronunciation of Carnegie, watch the YouTube Video below. Please ensure your volume is turned up or down, whichever you prefer.

National Park Service

The naturalist experience is complete with daily talks at the ranger station. Volunteers and rangers share knowledge of the biodiversity of Cumberland Island National Seashore. I arrived the morning after a recent super moon and discovered interesting facts about horseshoe crabs and their behavior during extreme tidal changes. Rangers and volunteers work tirelessly to ensure that horseshoe crabs that have washed up on shore are turned over on their correct side and returned to the ocean.

Coastline

Seventeen miles of coastline and 50 miles of shoreline at Cumberland Island National Seashore boast tall dunes teaming with wildlife such as deer, bobcats, armadillos and horses. The sun rises over the waves on this East Coast Georgia Barrier Island.

Sun rises over the dunes on the pristine beaches of the Barrier Islands of Georgia on the East Coast of The United States. Photo taken at Cumberland Island National Seashore.

Solo Camping at Cumberland Island National Seashore

It was my desire to camp in a place where I could explore yet feel some “comforts” of non-primitive camping. I opted for Sea Camp which is within 1 mile of the dock where carts and bicycles are both allowed. Sea Camp has potable water and non-heated showers. I discovered that this camp setting was perfect for a solo camping experience at Cumberland Island.

image not gif — Campsites have fire rings at the southern part of Cumberland Island; The northern part of the Island is Designated Wilderness with no fire pits and strict adherence to LNT principles.

Food Storage

I cannot stress enough the need to place all food in appropriate storage (provided) at the campground before leaving, no matter if it is just for a few moments. While there are no bears on Cumberland Island, raccoons are habituated to human presence and keenly aware that humans = food that their existence and mortality depends on your attention to detail at your campsite. If only leaving for 5 minutes to go to the restroom or similar task, secure all food as raccoons will see a short departure with unattended food as an invitation to “forage” at your campsite.

By Foot

I spent my Cumberland Island National Seashore vacation strictly on foot. I cannot imagine a better way to see the island and explore the intricacies it holds, than on foot. With a cart loaded and fantasies aligned, the time at Cumberland Island is best spent exploring in a state of awe. It may well be why locals have dubbed the state affectionately as “Ge-Awe-gia!”

The Magic at Dungeness

The Riverwalk Trail on the Western Boundary follows a path of maritime forest of dense pine and oak. Follow the riverwalk trail south to catch a glimpse of the wild horses at the Ruins of Dungeness. The house originally built by Oglethorpe underwent much renovation and was quite the site for extravagant parties during the heydays of Thomas and Lucy Carnegie.

The experience of being present as the wild horses graze, frolic and spar on the grounds of the former estate is quite possibly the most visually poetic of all sights in all the Georgia Barrier Islands. As I viewed a wild colt grazing several feet away and the ruins in the background, I was indeed moved by the imagery. Accompanied by his band of horses, all within a few strides from one another, this colt tells the tale of resilience of the horse and their will to withstand a hostile environment. Of the 40-50 horses I saw during my stay on Cumberland Island, this band (of 5 horses) was the most habituated to humans and displayed no signs of changing their grazing based on my presence.

This entire herd on Cumberland Island, consisting of several bands lives, grazes and runs in close proximity. Although no boundaries keep them confined, the herd remains within close range of The Dungeness Ruins, the nearby duck pond and the Eastern Shoreline all located on the southern end of this protected Island.

https://jenonthetrail.tumblr.com/post/688032687499460608

A colt grazing on the grounds of the late Carnegie Dungeness Ruins, Cumberland Island National Seashore

Camping at Stafford and Backcountry Hiking Beyond

Located approximately 3 miles north of Sea Camp is Stafford Campground. There is no potable water at Stafford, however, restrooms are provided. The Wilderness of Cumberland Island where few people journey on foot are simple backcountry sites. Those who camp in The Wilderness get the rare opportunity to experience life as it was for the inhabitants who were here long ago. The environment is pristine maritime forest with massive live oaks and saw palmettos, an ocean to the East and a river on the West. Some may say this Island is paradise while others point out that the constant humidity, scorching sun and hungry insects common to the Island are a deterrent. For those who can only take Coastal Georgia living in small doses, a day only trip is the answer.

Expensive Lodging

One may choose to select to stay at the Greyfield Inn. This was the location where the wedding reception was held for the Kennedy-Bessette wedding in 1996. This historic hotel was built for Margaret Carnegie and is the only commercial property on the island. Reservations are typically difficult to make online and require a phone call to ensure booking is made.

Homepage

The Greyfield Inn, Cumberland Island National Seashore

What did The Wildest Woman Win?

The woman who tirelessly fought to save the turtles of Cumberland Island, Carol Ruckdeschel is urging all of us to keep Cumberland Wild. The importance of the designation of Wilderness is that tourism does not take precedence to protecting an ecosystem, fragile habitats and at risk species. Carol is the uncontested woman of the American Wild who fought tirelessly to study and advocate for the loggerhead turtles and more recently for the right whale, an underwater habitat set aside for their protection. Carol, the self taught biologist and naturalist has fought for 40+ years to protect to The Wilderness of Cumberland?

The Future of The Wilderness at Cumberland Island

Camden County Spaceport received its 5 year contract from the FAA at the end of 2021. The trajectory of rockets launched within 5 miles of the island will speed across the northern end of Cumberland Island, potentially leaking copious amounts of rocket fuel and dislodging large metal fragments designed for detachment within moments of takeoff. It appears that nearby Florida and Georgia Barrier Islands in the flight path (trajectory of the launched rockets) have reason to be concerned with an emphasis on the future of The Wilderness at Cumberland Island being threatened by the business of space.

The construction phase and eventual launch site may disrupt nesting (egg laying) patterns of loggerhead turtles and 3 other turtle species and damage delicate marshland habitat essential for the piping plover’s survival. There are other species of birds such as the Wood Stork and Least Tern, and Painted Bunting. The final decision by FAA to grant the License to Camden Spaceport for the purpose of commercial rocket launches whose trajectory and flight path is directly over a Wilderness Site narrows the scope of the designation Wilderness and in some form negates its relevance in The United States. Furthermore, Cumberland Island National Seashore is World renowned and is a United Nations-sanctioned International Biosphere Reserve.

Lawmakers argue that only conservationists and holiday makers are the ones who oppose Camden County, GA Spaceport and their plans to send rockets directly over Cumberland Island National Seashore. There are threats to security and other concerns not being heard today by the FAA. When the FAA grants this sort of license to a fairly new player in the space industry, they should consider the probability that larger companies such as Blue Origin, Virgin Galactic, and SpaceX may find this newly granted FAA license appealing. Any of these large players could purchase the smaller, county owned company. Equally important, Spaceport Camden could agree to sell to a foreign company and transfer its license or by acting within its commercial license lease out rocket launches to foreign owned companies. A host of outcomes could be evaluated including threats to national security. An FAA Rocket Launching License falling into the wrong hands seems like a worthy point to argue since the argument that sea turtles, birds, and threatened marshlands does not appear like enough.

The Turtles and The Birds

The FAA responds in the following about the birds and the turtles and leaves out references to specific species in the FAA License granted to Spaceport Camden, signed in December 2021. The FAA addresses the lighting associated with turtles in the following protocol:

10. Turtle-friendly lighting requirements must be incorporated into
Launch Site Operator License Protected Species and Habitat Management Plan;
Launch Site Operator License lighting Management Plan; and
All future Vehicle Operator License Comprehensive Launch Plans using SpaceportCamden.
https://www.faa.gov/space/environmental/nepa_docs/camden_eis/media/Spaceport_Camden_ROD_Final.pdf

And now, we get to the birds, which ones? Is it the endangered birds? What birds, pre tel are being monitored in this comprehensive protocol? And what is a bird monitoring protocol? And who sets up this protocol which is arguably non specific?

13. Launch Site Operator License Protected Species and Habitat Management Plan must incorporate bird monitoring protocols; and
https://www.faa.gov/space/environmental/nepa_docs/camden_eis/media/Spaceport_Camden_ROD_Final.pdf

The Displaced “non-native” Horses

Then there is the case of the poor damn(ed) horses who are repeatedly being displaced from their grazing lands within The United States. Horses were transported across the world to do work for man until they were no longer needed, discarded and left to fend on their own. Much to the chagrin of man, these horses show so resilience, multiply and survive in the mountains of Montana, the deserts of Nevada and the humidity of southern Georgia.

These horses are forced off the land by cattle farmers once known as cowboys. It seems appropriate to call them horseboys since certainly don’t round up cattle on their own two feet? And the strangest of arguments for why horses need to leave the lands are the people shouting about the sage grouse habitat being destroyed by grazing “non-native” horses. Since when are natives given parle to freely live and move about the land without becoming a future meal or trophy? Bison, deer, wolf and bear may remain on land so that they may be hunted, not because they are native, not in the eyes of the people with real powder. I mean, POWER and powder, you see?

And how did horses who are not native, come to The Americas in the first place? They were brought here on ships. And horses were not the only living beings shipped from their homeland to America to work for man. Does any of this strike a chord?

One could argue that these Cumberland Island horses are in horrible shape and unhealthy. Parasites, disease and other illnesses plague these horses. Yet they are as a herd, continuing to survive, and until now, living without the threat of man since at least the 1970s.

Drones

Notably missing from this is any discussion of the horses on the island who may have the similar fear that horses in the West do when being rounded up by helicopters when both the drones fly and rockets launch. Drones will be flown to ensure that humans are not present during rocket launches.

A study by NASA about drones, their sounds and how they adversely affect those who hear them.

FAA’s responsibilities to encourage, facilitate, and promote commercial space launches and reentries by the private sector and facilitate the strengthening and expansion of U.S.
https://www.faa.gov/space/environmental/nepa_docs/camden_eis/media/Spaceport_Camden_ROD_Final.pdf

Enjoy it While You Can

Before construction gets into full swing and rockets start being launched, I advise that you visit Cumberland Island National Seashore. Stay in as rustic of a setting where you still can enjoy your time while there. Therefore, if you are not comfortable with primitive camping, you may not select Stafford or Backcountry sites. Visit in cooler months as temperatures soar into the 100s with humidity being the factor which is most uncomfortable.

Limitations of Legislation to Protect the Environment

And over the next few years, when you return home from Cumberland Island National Seashore, consider the limitations of the NPS and the designation of protected land and of protected wilderness. Consider the Global meaning of a United Nations-sanctioned International Biosphere Reserve Site being overruled when it comes to a billion dollar industry such as Space Exploration.

In the strangest of outcomes, why should the rest of the solar system be spared the destruction of man? And for the impending doom ensue, it only makes sense to build as many spaceports and space stations as soon as possible. For the mere purpose that when we discover life on other planets, that we destroy their habitat and existence as quickly as possible. Why even name the life we may find on another planet when the FAA doesn’t even use names of species given to life on Earth?